BBBB kit thoughts

We thought we should note down what we carried with us, and what we did and didn't need...

We camped 4 nights, stayed with "Warmshowers" hosts 2 nights, stayed in Youth Hostels 2 nights, stayed in 1 hotel and spent 1 night on the ferry.

Camping kit: 1 tent, 2 thermarests, 2 sleeping bags and liners, Trangia, pot with lid, pot holder, spatula, 2 spoons, fork, penknife, fuel, lighter, 2 head torches, 2 mugs, 2 bowls. 4 litre water bag and 2 litre water bag.

Clothes (each): cycling shorts, 2-3 shirts, waterproofs, socks, shoes, helmet. For evening 2 shirts, trousers, jumper, sandals. Pyjamas. 1 travel towel. Could have done without an extra pair of trousers packed by accident and with another thermal top.

Bike stuff: lights, speedometer, tools, maps. Water bottles. Inner tubes and brake pads.

2 phones, iPad (unused but thought I would have time/energy to read papers at night, ha!), cables. Documents and money. 3 water bottles. Chocolate!

Overall pretty minimal, didn't need much more and couldn't have done with much less.

Nappy cream may have been useful to reduce saddle- related chafing but all those involved with preliminary discussions of this mad plan will be pleased to hear that neither of us developed crotch-rot, foot or other fungus or ulcers!! :-)

BBBB 13 We've arrived in Berlin!

I've certainly slept well this trip, averaging 9 1/2 hours a night, and usually asleep by 9.30! Last night was no exception, and I even got a princess bed to sleep in! We stayed with some friends of F's in a top- floor flat in an old house right at the end of the pedestrian zone. The views in every direction were breathtaking, so it was well worth the climb up the 4 flights of stairs. The other bonus was the princess-bed, free for the night because G's daughter was at her Mum's.

Today brought the last of the cobbles- yippee! And the last of the sandy paths- yippee! We cycled over the Glieckener Brücke, famous for being one of the East- West crossing points where spies were swapped. Then through the Grünewald, with a last evil hill (and where the Berlin Ironman will be held over the weekend). Finally we cycled along a long main avenue towards the Siegessäule, ate cake in the Tiergarten and onto the Brandenburger Tor for the obligatory selfie. Hoorah!

From there only 20 miles to Schöneiche where F's Mum awaited us with beer and a sunny garden.

BBBB 12 to Potsdam

67 miles got us through to Potsdam today; just 20 miles from the Brandenburger Tor and a further 20 from F's Mum's house in Schöneiche. But oof, hard work today. My legs are done, and my backside will be very happy to never see a cobblestone again!

We had a lovely ride in the sun today- a bit overcast at times but dry all day. Such a change from yesterday. The route took us over the (minor) hills of the Höher Fläming and up to the banks of the Havel lakes S of Berlin.

Good cake today- a Streuselkuchen, a Pflaumkuchen and an Apfelkuchen. And I felt I needed every single calorie!

This evening my legs really hurt. Which is odd, as they haven't really been sore this whole trip. Cumulative stress?!

BBBB 11 to Lutherstadt Wittenburg

We found out last night why the YH looked so new- last year it got completely flooded when the Saale burst its banks and for a week there was 40cm of water in the building.

Last night we arrived in the rain, which continued when we went out for dinner (solid Deutsches venison) and was still continuing when we woke up this morning. Relentless solid rain that dribbled in everywhere and soaked us through....

Luckily the cakes in the bakery were a mere €1 so we made the most of the opportunity.

Today we tracked across the flatlands towards Dessau, which we reached v hungry at about 1 after some back-brake-fixing on my bike. During that interlude we also noticed my back tyre was pretty shot so we found a bike shop in Dessau and bought a new one. After lunch in the park near the Bauhaus F put on the tyre while I was despatched to buy more cake. Luckily by that time the rain had stopped.

After lunch we followed the Elbe Radweg towards Wittenberg - wending our way through beautiful parkland. We crossed a shallow river chock full of large fish. In Wörlitz we took a wrong turn which added on an extra 5km but which took us past the grand buildings and across the river on a little ferry at Coswik. Oh and we found some apple trees.

We're now, 60.5 miles later, in a great campsite just S of the river in Wittenberg. It used to be a Soviet Army base but was auctioned off in 2000 and the land is now a hotel, campsite and marina. Lots of touring cyclists.

BBBB 10 to Bernburg

57 miles and more cobblestones than you can shake a stick at today! We've left the hills behind but replaced sore legs with a sore behind.

The R1 followed a lovely route, initially following the line of the hills but eventually breaking clear and winding along first the Bode and then the Saale. We're definitely in Eastern Germany now: huge fields, lots of industry and generally less affluent.

We're staying in the Youth Hostel in Bernburg, a brand new building that currently appears to be empty. We're in a massive 10-bunk room- spoiled for choice! It's now raining but we have to go back out if we want dinner....

BBBB 9 to Thale

A short day, distance-wise, to make up for the overlength day yesterday. But tough nonetheless, as we granny-cogged or pushed our way up 4 steep hills, mainly on dirt, then also had to go slow on the descents for fear of skidding out.

As seems to be common around here, the towns have fantastic old centres, with houses that are all gabled and painted. Every market square has a church and an apothecary and some cute cafes. Very pretty.

We crossed the 'border' into eastern Germany just before lunch and celebrated with cake- the second slab of the day. Good cake in this part of the world! The border area, now the Harz national park, was left to its own devices for 30-odd years so its pretty wild.

We're now in Thale, a small resort town at the edge of the Harz with an excellent spa. So once installed into a cosy room with the laundry safely in the machine we headed off to the sauna. Wonderful! And I even embraced my inner German and wandered around naked with everyone else. Invigorating but oh so non-English.....

BBBB 8 to Langelsheim

A 'viscious' 76 miles today with lots of ups and downs and a diversion that definitely added an extra few miles on. Very knackered tonight! Part of the route was along dirt tracks; definitely slowed the pace and increased the energy consumption.

After a very wet start to the night last night, we had lots of wet gear to lug around today too. Luckily the morning was dry and the lunchspot sunny, so we managed to dry the tent out at least.

From lunch onwards we relentlessly climbed and dropped, climbed ad droppef. Lots on dirt track, and one bit so steep we both had to get off and push.

We're now at a peaceful little campsite next to the Innerstetausee surrounded by 500m 'peaks' (gasp, the altitude!). It's not raining now but we huddled under a tree for a bit of a deluge earlier- my raincoat is just not up to the job any more. Anyway the traumas of the day were all forgotten over pasta and beer, eaten looking out over the lake. In bed 20.45!!!

BBBB 7 to Höxter

Today we found the hills! Admittedly not big ones (I think we summited at 300m asl) but requiring lowest gear and a lot of huffing and puffing nonetheless.

62 miles from Verl found us in Höxter, a lovely medieval town on the banks of the river Weser. We have our tent pitched a mere 5m from the water.

The excitement of the day was when F's luggage rack broke, so we had to buy a new one in Detmold. 30 Euros and 10 mins of tool- wrangling later and all was fixed. Detmold also does a great line in Nutella crepes.

Just over the first hill from Detmold we came to Holzhausen Externsteine, a bunch of 35m high sandstone towers. We were suddenly in touristville, but they were pretty cool.

We realised yesterday that we're halfway!!  Yay! This trip is definitely about the travel and not about the daily destination, which we rarely explore because we're too knackered. Today was the exception as once the tent was pitched and we'd showered we headed off to find a supermarket and see town. V pretty.

BBBB 6 to Verl

Only 52 miles today, we took it 'easy' after the long ride yesterday. We had a bit of a lie in, and went to see the old town in Muenster before setting off.

The route today took us along a pleasant bimble through farmland and woodland. Warendorf was a very pleasant little town about 30km out of Münster- a good place for coffee. F also found a butcher selling Zwiebelwurst, a sort of raw mince concoction that tastes better than it sounds!

We decided to short-cut the last loop if the R1 into Verl; big mistake as then we had to ride along a thunderingly busy road. A slightly stressful end to the day!

So, first hotel of the trip, all v comfy and nicely anonymous. Great steak dinner and now to bed (its 8.30....!)

BBBB 5 to Muenster

Ooooooof! We managed to take some shortcuts across the signed route but even so, it was a long old day! 82 miles in the end, with one absolutely drenching shower, including hail! Luckily it didn't last long and there was a handily-placed bus stop to shelter in.

But let's start at the beginning. We left Lochem after a great breakfast and an even greater sleep, and pedalled our way towards the border. 20 km later we were in Germany, and suddenly in maize-field territory. The stuff is everywhere!

Excellent espresso and gelato in Stadtlohn, then onwards ever onwards. We had a lovely lunch of German rolls and Dutch cheese in a bus shelter in the middle of nowhere (literally along a farm track) and then more coffee and cake in Havixbeck. I know I talk about food a lot but refueling is critical!

Our arrival in Muenster in rush hour was a culture shock: total bike chaos after the calm of the countryside! We couldn't meet up with our host until 8 but he suggested a fab veggie restaurant and we stuffed ourselves with Spaetzle.

We're now in a tatty but friendly WG, with a v comfy bed. The exploration of Muenster will have to wait until tomorrow!

BBBB 4 To Lochem

After a great breakfast that included vlokken and speculaas spread on fresh buns we pedalled off into another blustery showery day. Forgot to mention yesterday that I got a puncture 100m from 'home' yesterday but F patched it up and so far so good.

70 miles today through heathland, farmland and the Hooge Veluwe National Park. Beautiful but not super speedy. Sore wrists, knees and achilles tendons today but nothing major.

Our destination was Lochem, 2km from R1, our route to Berlin. We're staying with a great 'Warmshowers' host in a very comfortable house.

150km to Muenster tomorrow.... F picked the route.....

BBBB 3 to Bussum

We arrived at Hoek van Holland on a blustery day with frequent short sharp showers and pedalled our way northwards and eastwards. I'd either forgotten or never quite realised how varied the Dutch landscape is...

From Hoek to Monster (2nd breakfast), we pedalled rhrough vast estates of greenhouses, then on to Scheveningen through the dunes. Then through The Hague, Voorburg, Voorschoten and Leiden past all the old houses and haunts, and a Massive Pancake lunch in Leiden.

From Leiden eastwards we pedalled past my old sailing club in Woubrugge, and through polderlands with water on all sides. As we neared Bussum we came through thick woodlands and heath.

75 miles travelled, all with a very strong tail wind. Tired...

The funniest sight of the day was a little old lady walking her mini pug on one side and her Great Dane on the other...

It was great to see W+ C and family settling in in Bussum. Lovely house, lots of unpacking still to do!!

BBBB 2 to Harwich

A solid 10 hours sleep and a cup of tea by the lake made everything look rosy again this morning. Despite sore sit bones everything else seemed to be working and it was easy to pack everything up.

We cycled through some fantastically-named villages, like Helions Bumpstead and down tiny winding lanes near Twinstead. Then the heavens opened and we found ourselves a hearty Sunday Roast in the nearest pub.

The sun came back out again for the afternoon ride, and with the wind blowing strongly at our backs we made good time to Harwich.

Now we just need to find a great fish and chip place, and then the right ferry, and we'll be off. Goodbye England, hello Holland and Germany!